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Paul Smith makes a menswear colour wheel

PARIS – Paul Smith’s went through the rainbow for a bold spring summer menswear collection for 2013.

Peach, forest green, rose pale blue, vermilion and lemon yellow filed past on models like successive tones on a colour wheel. The statement was: This season’s man is happy, confident, and proud of it.

There was some clear study done on finding the ideal palette: one ensemble in yellow ochre, terracotta, mint green and pale blue simply blossomed.

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Strong shouldered-fitted suits with skinny pants hit the trend button, but also featured alongside a new carrot silhouette in the pant, with billowing pockets.

Print also featured strongly in fabrics splattered with dissected rose images.

But did the show’s brightness lack a manly edge? There’s no need to worry.

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“If my customers come into my showroom, they’ll still find the navy blues, the rent payers,” said Smith backstage. “These bright colours are for a show of 12 minutes of impact, just a statement.”

Smith – a designer with a strong business mind – clearly understands how to design for men: softly, softly is the key.

“With (menswear) clothes for me it’s about nudging not shoving.”

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Thomas Adamson can be followed at http://Twitter.com/ThomasAdamsonAP

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