B.C. inventor of the California roll going strong after more than 50 years

Sushi is about as British Columbian today as coffee and craft beer. and sushi-aficionados have Vancouver-based chef Hidekazu Tojo to thank.

He helped usher in the sushi craze that started in the 1980s by inventing the California roll, and has been introducing customers to creative Japanese cuisine for more than 50 years.

Global’s This is BC caught up with Tojo recently as he made yet another early morning visit to the docks in Vancouver’s False Creek to get first crack at the latest catch.

“Oh good. Very nice,” Tojo said, as he inspected a live crab.

“We always set aside the very best for Tojo,” said one of the fishermen while opening up a cooler on the back of his boat.

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Tojo’s friendships with some of these local fishermen date back several decades. Just like his long-time customers, some who have been coming to see him since the late 1970s — when sushi was a very hard sell for most people.

“If you told someone you were going to eat raw fish, they would look at you like you were crazy. And they certainly wouldn’t try it,” said Marc Langdon, who has been ordering from Tojo for the past 45 years.

“They’re not interested,” said Tojo of the reaction from many people in those days. “They say, ‘Raw fish. Ew. Yuck.’”

In 1971, then a young unknown chef from Osaka, Tojo moved to Vancouver to work at one of the few Japanese restaurants in the city.

“August 25. I remember,” Tojo said.

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He went on to become a west coast culinary pioneer, helping usher in the sushi craze of the 1980s while gaining fame for his new creation, which was later called the California roll.

His key insight? Hiding the seaweed inside the roll because he noticed the sight of it on outside seemed to be turning people off.

“White rice outside, sesame seed on top,” said Tojo. “People were like, ‘Ok I’ll try it. Delicious.’”

His growing reputation attracted celebrity chefs like Martha Stewart and Anthony Bourdain.

And countless celebrity customers, from movie stars like Morgan Freeman and Tom Cruise to rock stars like Paul Stanley, Angus Young and Nikki Sixx.

Tojo’s even been invited to band studio sessions, sometimes being told to put down the knives and pick up a microphone.

“I said, ‘Ok, you include my staff. They sing. I’m a very bad singer,’” laughed Tojo.

After more than 50 years on the scene that mass aversion to raw fish has certainly faded for people of all ages.

“It’s kind of interesting now, the kids eat sushi the way they eat pizza,” said Paul Belserene, another long-time customer.

At 21 years of age, Tojo took a big chance moving to a new country to try something very few were doing. Which has always been his advice for any young chef.

“Please make originality. Don’t copy,” Tojo said. “Just make originality and people will respect you.”

To contact Jay Durant with a story idea for This is BC, email him details and contact information at thisisbc@globalnews.ca