PARIS – Proving that you don’t need curves to be chic, the square look gracing runways all season hit its pinnacle in the fall-winter collection by Akris on Sunday.
Creative director Albert Kriemler’s designs channeled the work of 1950s Expressionist painter Franz Kline to give an architectural, angular show of fabrics that hid womanly shapes.
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A rust and nude cashmere silk floor-length dress hung like a column, focusing the eye on never-ending legs.
Vertical lined shirt dresses that blurred vision “magic eye”-style, and trapezoid jackets, lapels and prints boldly asserted the boxy style that’s the big story for this fall.
The colours were taken straight from Kline canvases with a charcoal colour block cape, based on “Painting No.7,” reprinted in the program notes, and a pantsuit offering a dash of warmth.
“Kline’s work was an exciting discovery for me,” said the Swiss designer, “a 1950s artist that captures in painting, the architecture and the dynamics of fashion today.”
With collections like this, Akris’ already sizable fan base will no doubt continue to grow.
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