NEW YORK, N.Y. – Jenny Packham let her models slip into something more comfortable but left them runway ready at New York Fashion Week on Monday during the preview of the London-based designer’s spring collection.
The looks were all cocktail frocks, gala gowns and the occasional lace tap pant, with intricate beading and sporadic train, but there was an underlying delicacy and simplicity born from the lingerie-like layers.
“I love the crossover from lingerie,” Packham said right after the show. “We didn’t have much styling. I don’t think we needed it. It was just hair and makeup. We had all these great accessories to use, but we decided to keep it soft.”
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A white, tea-length lace overlay topped a satin slip, and a lace-trimmed teddy was covered in floral beading. A long white lace dress boasted a beaded cascade of flowers in blue, yellow and coral – among the hottest colours of the season, and a champagne-coloured lace gown dripped with beaded red posies.
The opening look, made of white chiffon, had a cinched waist and beaded lace at on the front and back of the bodice.
“Spring Summer 2012 is inspired by gleaming skies of opal whites and azure blues, painted with lavish glittering brush strokes and arresting vivid rainbow hues of geranium reds, sunset oranges, lemon-drop yellows and citrus limes,” ending with dazzling encrusted Swarovski crystals in radiant gold,” Packham said in her notes.
Of course, the designer says she had many personal favourites in the collection but she predicted the first one to make it to a red carpet would be the delicate red chiffon dress with flounces of organza and a high slit.
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