MILAN – Donatella Versace must have the chainmail market cornered.
Versace’s womenswear collection for next winter, previewed during Milan Fashion Week on Friday, was heavy on garments in some way adorned with silvery chains or mesh in every imaginable weight and density.
The heavy metal looks would be ideal for a futuristic galactic gladiator – even one who wanted to show her vulnerabilities as much as defend herself against adversaries.
The bustier, often fortified with chainmail that was first introduced to the label by the late Gianni Versace in the 1980s, was the centrepiece of the collection, forming breast plates that were built into figure-hugging dresses and that topped slim pencil skirts.
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Versace adorned her creations with Byzantine crosses, often bejewelled, another of her brother’s favourite motifs. At times she enhanced the look with silver accents on the hips – creating a streamlined silhouette.
As much as creating shields, Versace also sought to be revealing.
She used beads to create an open mesh that she worked into dresses or used as overlays on top of nude sheaths.
For the devil-may-care rocker, there was a backless black dress covered with what appeared to be shredded white ribbon.
The colour scheme was mostly black and white, but Versace can never resist bold colours and this time reached for yellow and orange. Models wore short bangs and long flowing hair.
The short skirts were often paired with high-heeled knee boots, themselves covered with crystals and beads, and worn with fishnet stockings.
The silver chains, crystals and jewel beading reflects any sliver of light, creating a fantastic nighttime effect, but meaning the wardrobe ultimately would not work well on a sneak attack. Gladiators, beware.
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