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‘Keep it cool:’ the Armani message for next spring and summer menswear

A model wears a creation of Giorgio Armani men's Spring-Summer 2012 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Tuesday, June 21, 2011. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).
A model wears a creation of Giorgio Armani men's Spring-Summer 2012 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy, Tuesday, June 21, 2011. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

MILAN – Giorgio Armani’s clothes for next spring and summer are comfortable and relaxed – the kind of clothes the designer himself likes to wear.

The white-haired, fit and permanently tanned Armani is known to shun formal wear, preferring slacks and T-shirts to jackets and ties.

His latest menswear collection presented Tuesday, the final day of Milan’s menswear fashion week, is chock full of easy-to-wear clothes, from the lightweight darted trousers to the airy pullovers knitted in geometric patterns to the casual espadrille footwear.

The designer who earned fashion fame in the late 1970s with the lining-less jacket continues to turn out fabulous jackets season after season – although he has little use for them himself.

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For next year’s warm weather, the jacket is in feather-light fabrics, perfect for the deconstructed tailoring, and has either a single button, or is double breasted, a yesteryear look popular on the current Milan runway.

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Pants are roomy and cool, at times gathered at the hem, in either case short enough to reveal the ankle. Bermuda shorts, heavily featured during Milan fashion week, have no place on the Armani runway.

Instead, the designer embraces the current print trend, using geometric motifs for shirts, sweaters and even footwear.

A single outfit has a silk shirt and matching trousers both in small brown and beige checks, creating a jumpsuit effect, another popular next year’s summer look.

Colours are soothing shades of beige, blue and grey.

Armani offers comfortable footwear to go with his relaxed summer look. For those greedy for new trends, he offers sneakers in crocodile. And for the rest who just want to feel good in their shoes, there are suede espadrilles.

Setting the example, the maestro wore dark trousers, a navy T-shirt and comfortable white leather brogues, for the runway bow at the end of the show presented in the minimalist theatre in his downtown Milan headquarters.

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