Bread has taken a major hit in recent years thanks to the gluten free movement that blames the pantry staple (as well as favourites like pizza, pasta and rice) for excessive bloating, gas and other gastrointestinal discomforts. But for the avidly anti-gluten, the perilous protein isn’t just banned from passing through their lips, it can’t go over them, either. These are the proponents of gluten free beauty products, a sector of the gluten free market that has many experts questioning its validity.
“Gluten has no effect on the skin,” says Dr. Benjamin Barankin, medical director of the Toronto Dermatology Centre. “Unless you have a severe allergy to gluten, which is rare, there is no need for gluten free beauty products.”
The reason gluten in beauty products won’t trigger a reaction is because the protein molecules are too big to penetrate skin, therefore they cannot be absorbed into the system. Even in cases of dermatitis herpetiformis, a form of celiac disease that manifests itself primarily on the skin causing painful rashes and blistering, it has been proven that topical application of gluten has no effect. For a reaction to occur, sufferers need to ingest gluten, not rub it in. Plus, there simply isn’t enough gluten in beauty products to trigger a reaction.
For those whose sensitivity can be tipped off by the slightest ingestion of gluten – for some, all it takes is 50 mg of the protein, the equivalent of 1/70th of a slice of bread – lip products containing gluten should be avoided, as well as toothpaste and mouthwash.
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Even the beauty brands that tout gluten free products are aware that the absence of it doesn’t have much bearing on those who suffer from celiac disease. But as buzzwords go, this one resonates deeply with consumers.
“Because of the gluten free food awareness, there has been market demand for other gluten free products, including skin care and hair care,” says Bill Topolinski, L’ANZA hair care vice president of research and development. “Some consumers are under the assumption that people who have celiac disease or who are gluten intolerant also risk a reaction when using topical hair care products that contain gluten. That’s not the case. The gluten molecule cannot be absorbed through the skin or scalp and enter the intestinal track to cause problems.”
Furthermore, he says, gluten has no effect on hair, which is why L’ANZA products are gluten free.
READ MORE: Check skin, hair products for potentially risky preservatives, Health Canada says
Anyone allergic to wheat may want to be more careful about the ingredients in their skin care products, however.
“It is unlikely for a person with gluten intolerance or celiac disease to have a reaction to a skin care product,” says Petra Augenstein, chief pharmacist at Weleda. “However, there are people who have wheat allergies that may cause them to have skin sensitivities. We filter our wheat germ oil to remove allergy causing proteins, but we cannot guarantee that all of the residues are removed.”
So, what’s a gluten-phobe to do in these uncertain beauty times?
“Keep an eye on what is in your products,” says Dr. Nancy Steely, naturopathic doctor and Arbonne senior director of research and development. “If you are having reactions to your skin care or makeup products and are celiac, try eliminating those containing gluten and see if your situation improves.”
Of course, if you don’t know if you’re gluten intolerant and cut both gluten and a gluten-containing skin care product out of your routine simultaneously, the chances are fairly high that any reaction you’ve experienced is from the gluten you’ve ingested not the one you’ve rubbed on your face.
“These companies are just playing on buzzwords,” says Dr. Barankin. “Gluten free, GMO free, vegan. There is no scientific merit to this when used in skin care products.”
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